There’s a whole lot o’ nothin’ between Tucson and Amarillo, and even less between there and Waco. Eleven hundred miles between us and the Celestial City of Magnolia Market. One Cadillac. Two days. Three women. We were on a mission to tear it up in Waco—by eight o’clock every night so we could get to bed. The aftershocks of Mission:Magnolia didn’t create any headlines—we did about as much damage as you’d find on appliances in a scratch and dent store. But it wore us out anyway.
Pam and I pulled out on the road at 5 a.m. on a Monday morning. Somewhere between her house and Amarillo, through no fault of our own, we misplaced two hours. If the sun rises in the east and we were driving east, who needs time zones and Daylight Savings Time? Hmm? Answer me that.
We wasted another ninety minutes following Google Maps’ advice to take highway 54 north through New Mexico. It’s a nice road for a long, Sunday drive. It’s a lousy one, though, when you’re on a mission and trying to make time. It was just one tiny little nothin’ town after another, and you know what that means. Pam’s Caddy nearly fell asleep we were driving so slow.
By the time we arrived in Amarillo to pick up my sister, Lynette, dinnertime was practically over, and it was almost time for breakfast. The next morning, we all slept in until seven. Or nine. I can’t remember. I was in a coma. At any rate, we missed the world-famous breakfast bar downstairs in our hotel—thank the Lord—and made the first Starbucks detour of the day to find sustenance. And iced mochas, a food group all to themselves. Yes, please.
We did it! There we were—all three of us, trapped inside a car surrounded by mounds of luggage. “Where are my suitcases gonna go?” Lynette asked Monday night in Amarillo when she saw the fully loaded back end of the Caddy. We were worried for a second, but the bigger question was—where were we gonna put all the stuff we planned to buy from Joanna Gaines?
Somehow, Day Two’s navigator overlooked how many miles lay ahead of us on our trip to the land of shiplap. I thought we’d be eating fresh cupcakes by noon. Instead, we made Lynette scrounge around in the cooler beside her on the backseat so we could munch on unsalted hardboiled eggs and four-dollar Sargentino snack packs “filled” with about a teaspoon each of broken nuts, craisins, and cheese fragments. Remember the ‘whole lot o’ nothin’ in eleven hundred miles’? Lunchtime was a distant memory by the time we reached our second hotel.
We decided to play a game to help pass the time. When I was a kid, playing car games like Count The White Cows You See Through Your Window was the only thing that kept my parents from leaving us stranded on the side of the road during family vacations. By comparison, today’s mom and dad seem much more advanced. They wear sound-canceling headphones when they travel with children. By the time they pull into Grandma’s driveway, they have no idea how many times the question, “Are we there yet?” has bounced around the interior of the family station wagon.
But are you really a parent if you haven’t been driven to the edge of extinction by children who travel without portable DVD players? Just a little sidebar there. Don’t send me angry emails. Every grandmother I know thinks they had it worse back in the day, but that’s only because all the really cool baby taming tools weren’t invented until our little tribes were in high school. Believe me, I’d have filled the backend of our minivan with DVD players if it would have short-circuited six-year-old whining.
Lynette and I did our best to drive Pam crazy when she was behind the wheel, but Pam’s used to whiners. She can tune out complaining women and flashing blue lights like a champion. “What?” she said every time I asked, “Are we there yet?” She claimed to be hearing impaired, but I know that trick. My husband uses it all the time. Finally, I found the box of conversation starter questions she’d brought along, and read some of the cards to my captive audience.
“If you could pursue any
career in the world, what would you be?”
Octopus wrangler. Well, we were teetering on the edge of low blood sugar.
Octopus wrangler. Well, we were teetering on the edge of low blood sugar.
“If you had intro music,
what song would it be?”
Ba-by shark doo doo doodoo doo doo . . . Thanks for putting that music in my head. For the rest of the day. All the way to Waco.
Ba-by shark doo doo doodoo doo doo . . . Thanks for putting that music in my head. For the rest of the day. All the way to Waco.
And the question that
explained everything. “What word describes you and the kind of dog breed you’d
be?
“Annoyingly happy,” Pam said. I knew she wasn’t deaf. “Like a Jack Russell terrier—always wanting to sit on your lap. I like to ‘do.’ I don’t like to ‘think.’ Cuz if it turns out wrong, at least you’re doing something.”
Lynette and I exchanged glances. Yep. It explained a lot. Especially that red blanket thrown over her head in the backseat thing.
I had to think for a minute. Dogs. There are so many. Should I go with a red one to match my hair? What type of dog is a slug? “I think I’m hopeful,” I announced. “And sensitive, like a Saint Bernard. Like, I don’t know how to help, but I want to. So, here’s a beer.”
Head nods from the other two women. “Definitely you,” they agreed.
“Okay, Lynette,” I pressed, “your turn.”
“I’m faithful,” she told us after a nanosecond of introspection. “I’m like a mixed breed. You know, fiercely protective but temperamental with a mean streak. And a sharp tongue.”
“So, you’re a pit bull?” I asked.
“Or a chihuahua,” Pam contributed.
Lynette raised an eyebrow. “And I pack heat,” she added.
I made a note of that. Do not annoy the pistol-packing pit bull/chihuahua in the back seat.
We played twenty questions for about twenty minutes and then a couple of us began to whine again. Pam gave up the driver’s seat in retaliation and curled up in the back with that red blanket disguise, Lynette stepped in as navigator next to me in the front, I set the cruise control to “avoid Texas cops at all cost,” and we crawled through one dusty, deserted town after another for the next two hours.
Highway 287 South is a long, lonesome corridor through the remnants of once-thriving communities and a few that are still alive and kicking. The good news there is the towns with a population have open bathrooms. The bad news is they also have cops who hide behind speed limit signs. I prefer the ghost towns, like the one we drove through called Chorizo, Texas, or something like that, where all the windows are made of plywood and even the library is up for sale. I mean, when a town sinks so low that they sell the library, you know it’s time to move on. Especially when the marquee on the only remaining hotel reads, “We offer full hookups.” Time to move on.
Well, it’s not really about the destination, is it? It’s about the journey. The memories. The starvation. The potty breaks. We took a lot of potty breaks because—the drivers were always women. We were in charge. There were no men rolling their eyes. In fact, no men allowed. We were a car full of women, dadgummit, and if we even felt a tiny little bit like nature was calling, we pulled over at the first Love’s station and took care of business. Because we could. Because we’re women. Because there were no men to tell us we couldn’t. And because we were sick and tired of driving.
But all that freedom was expensive. It cost us at least an extra hour on Day Two of The Road To Waco. And quite a bit of what little sanity we remembered to bring along. This time Lynette pulled out the Chatterbox Game, while Pam yawned and stretched in the backseat, alert and oriented times zero but too much a terrier to let us play without her.
“What will the epitaph on your headstone read?” Lynette read.
“She Peed.”
Lynette rolled her eyes. “That’s standard on every woman’s gravestone.”
“Okay,” Pam said, “mine will say, Death Is But The Beginning.”
“Very optimistic, little Jaqueline Russell,” I commented. “Mine would be, I Told You I Was Sick.”
“And Rob’s will read, What Else Is New,” Lynette quipped. She knows us so well.
“Your turn, Lynette.”
“Hmm, I think it’ll be, I’m Watching You.”
“Creepy,” I said, “very creepy. You’ve been watching thrillers again, haven’t you?”
It was all downhill from there. From the positive, feel good inscription, She Loved Well, to the neurotic, passive aggressive Maybe Now You’ll Come Visit Me, You Ba*****s, we breezed through another hour of road weariness writing our own epitaphs, convinced as the sun began to sink low in one of those directions women can never find that we’d all be dead and buried in a remote ghost town in the Republic of Texas before we ever found a place to sleep and something to eat besides hard boiled eggs.
And then it happened.
The road rose up to meet us, the bridge over the River Brazos appeared, our national symbol—the Golden Arches—gleamed, and rusty silos stood silent and welcoming. Closed, but welcoming. “Come back tomorrow,” they whispered, a comforting invitation to our weary, road sick souls. “And bring lots of money.”
Well. At least it wasn’t another ghost town.









